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If we leave the typo in the title - will engagement go up?? (Really I am too lazy to fix and re-render!) <br /><br />Anyway.....years back when doing the transmission in a Mercury Mountaineer, I picked up this inexpensive transmission jack. In fact it was the cheapest full-height transmission jack available at the time. It's a Summit branded unit, but there's plenty of other brands using the same build style. It works, but always a pain to use.<br /><br />Well coming soon we'll have a video for a clutch replacement in a JK Wrangler - so we needed our transmission jack for that job, and wanted to spruce it up a bit!<br /><br />So today we're going to try and breath some life into this, without expending the cost for a better unit - which could easily cost north of $1,000. <br /><br />Come along as we upgrade the casters (to better get over our floor plate lift) and add an air-hydraulic foot pump so we can automatically raise this unit without having to bend down and run a hand crank.<br /><br />TOOLS AND PARTS:<br /><br />Note that any links going to Amazon will be using our Amazon affiliates links, which means we may get a small commission. Also note that I only link to things I have bought, or would buy as an option. I do not get paid to share links, or promote products - I share what I use or would use only.<br /><br />Hydraulic / Air pump:<br />While you can probably find cheaper/smaller pumps, I elected to go with the unit shown in the video. It's a knockoff of the OTC Stinger 2510A unit. I'll link to both - I went cheaper here because the OTC unit would put me in the territory of just upgrading the jack itself...and is likely overkill for this application anyway.<br /><br />Vevor Pump - Shows on Amazon now as a "Mophorn" unit. There's plenty of off-brands with the same design, I filtered through to find the best value - i.e. the best price and the most amount of actual real reviews that weren't horrible. So far it's working great for me.<br />https://amzn.to/3LwUL9s<br /><br />Higher End - OTC Stinger 2510A - again this is overkill, but if you want to get a higher end unit, this is available. It does still appear to be made in China, but is OTC designed.<br />https://amzn.to/3yNQHtX<br /><br />CASTERS:<br /><br />The casters I used - again probably higher quality name brands out there, but these fit the bill when it came to fitment, added height, and weight capacity.<br />Caster Wheels 5 Inch, CLOATFET Locking Casters, Swivel Casters with Brake <br />https://amzn.to/3LqYTb2<br /><br />Transmission Jacks:<br />The one you see in this video is this unit - as of posting the video, the price is back down to $210, but still not at the $160 I paid for many years back.<br /><br />Summit Racing™ Tall Transmission Jacks SUM-91705<br />https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-917054<br /><br />it appears to be the same as many other brands, like this Big Red version on Amazon:<br />BIG RED TR4053 Torin Hydraulic Garage/Shop Telescoping Transmission Floor Jack: 1/2 Ton (1,000 lb) Capacity, Red<br />https://amzn.to/3LqZ7Pq<br /><br />If you are looking for a higher quality transmission jack, here's some other options for reference. I'm sure there's PLENTY more out there, I just took a few mins to grab a few links. If you are really shopping for a new transmission jack, please do your research, I've not used or researched any of these, simply sharing as options for better quality jacks for a shop.<br /><br />Sunex 7793B 1/2-Ton Telescopic Transmission Jack - $862 at time of publish<br />https://amzn.to/42inTqZ<br /><br />OTC 5078 2000 lbs Capacity Air-Assisted High-Lift Transmission Jack - this is a production shop level jack, quite nice, but $4600 at time of publish<br />https://amzn.to/42v9yYq<br /><br />OTC Air-Assisted 1,000 lb. Capacity High-Lift Transmission Jacks 1728<br />Not on amazon, but another high quality shop unit, still very pricey at $3509 at time of publish:<br />https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-1728<br /><br />Sunex Tools Air/Hydraulic Telescopic Transmission Jacks 7796<br />More reasonable air powered option for moderate shop use, $1093 at time of publish<br />https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-7796
If you have a WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee, especially one with QuadraDrive, the type of fluid you use and the procedure for servicing the axles and transfer case are very important. Today we walk through the process of doing a fluid service on the front and rear axles as well as the NV247 transfer case on this 2004 Quadra Drive equipped WJ.<br /><br />Parts and Tools Links:<br /><br />Note that any links going to Amazon will be using our Amazon affiliates links, which means we may get a small commission. Also note that I only link to things I have bought, or would buy as an option. I do not get paid to share links, or promote products - I share what I use or would use only.<br /><br />Fluid: <br />75W-140 Synthetic (This is the fluid spec for the vast majority of WJ's, including Dana 30, 35C, and 44A axles - Note that SOME 1999 WJ's may have 80w90 spec'ed, and others may state 75w140 for towing. All of mine which were 2004 model year have always used 75w140)<br /><br />1 Gallon will service both axles with fluid leftover.<br /><br />Lucas 10122 75/140 Synthetic Gear Oil - 1 Gallon<br />https://amzn.to/3xXP2kX<br /><br />Friction Modifier - used for Trak-Lock (limited slipo) or QuadraDrive type axles (2 needed to service both front and rear - rear Dana-44a uses 4oz, front Dana-30 uses 2.5oz)<br /><br />Genuine Mopar Fluid 4318060AC Limited Slip Additive - 4 oz. Bottle , White<br />https://amzn.to/3xXMnHU<br /><br /><br />NV247 Transfer Case fluid: purchase 2 quarts to have enough, holds 3.4pints<br />Genuine Chrysler 5016796AC Lubricant-TRANSFERCASE, 32. Fluid_Ounces, 1 Quart , Black<br />https://amzn.to/41C5MvY<br /><br />Gear-oil spec RTV<br />Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker, 3 oz.<br />https://amzn.to/3Zsfdfj<br /><br /><br />Fluid Transfer Pumps:<br /><br />For GALLON:<br />Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for Gallon Bottles and Wide Mouth Quart Bottles (Not for Standard Quart Bottles)<br />https://amzn.to/41AQN5a<br /><br />For QUARTS (will still pull out of a gallon, just may not screw on)<br />Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for QUART BOTTLES - Transfer Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluid With This 5cc Hand Pump (NOT FOR Red Line Quarts!)<br />https://amzn.to/3mfgeJt<br /><br /><br />Steck 20015 "Seambuster" - This is a body work chisel but it works great in this application<br />https://amzn.to/3IZtoTS<br /><br />10mm allen socket for nv247 fill and drain plugs - 1/2 drive example<br />Sunex 26495 1/2-Inch Drive 10-mm Hex Impact Socket<br />https://amzn.to/3EFLibt<br /><br />3/8 drive example:<br />Sunex 36487 3/8-Inch Drive 10-mm Hex Impact Socket<br />https://amzn.to/3IXh9ah<br /><br />TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench (10-80 ft.-lb.) 24330<br />https://amzn.to/3J0iOvG<br /><br />Optional/not-required ptfe sealant:<br />Permatex 80632 Thread Sealant with PTFE, 4 oz. , White<br />https://amzn.to/3xVXLEq<br /><br />Optional Upgrade:<br />ADDCO Sway Bar 634 - 7/8" Rear - Designed For 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee & Limited (Coil Spring Rear)<br />https://amzn.to/3kBfhe1
This is a Bonus video to our Jeep WJ rear brakeline replacement video here: https://youtu.be/t0PdMhxF5Wc<br /><br />In this video we simply focus on some of the details of tools, processes, and tips for bending and flaring your own lines.<br /><br />Now, I do admit - if you are just looking to do a single brake line for your WJ, do not have any of these tools, and don't plan to do more in the future - buying a pre-formed brake line is going to be faster and cheaper for you.<br /><br />For me, I have made lines for vehicles where you can't buy pre-formed lines, or custom applications or other line types. So I've amassed the tools, and a healthy assortment of fittings. I also try to keep a stash of line in stock. So for me, I can often make a full line in the shop without having to go anywhere, and the cost is only the line itself.<br /><br />So if you're looking to build up the tools and skills to do this, this video gets into more detail of what you'll need, and some tips I've learned over the years.<br /><br />TOOLS AND PARTS LINKS:<br /><br />Note that any links going to Amazon will be using our Amazon affiliates links, which means we may get a small commission. Also note that I only link to things I have bought, or would buy as an option. I do not get paid to share links, or promote products - I share what I use or would use only.<br /><br />BRAKE LINES and TUBE NUTS<br /><br />Note: As with anything WJ Brake related, do note that there was a change from Tevis to Akebono front calipers for the 2004 model year, which I believe started around April 2003 builds. I don't think this affects any of the brake hard lines, but it does affect the front flexible lines - still always double check any parts we share relating to brakes that they fit your year jeep - even though I do think these specific parts should fit all WJs.<br /><br />First off, if you are looking to try a pre-formed kit, I'll share one that appears to have good reviews. I don't recall if this is the one we used when we did a pre-formed kit on a 2004 4.0 WJ a few years back. I do recall it went in ok though, it did need some tweaks, and it is a 2-peice kit. Not a bad option if you don't want to bend line.<br /><br />Fine Lines WIN9951OM Brake Line<br />https://amzn.to/3kh4Agr<br /><br />If you prefer to make your own here are some options:<br /><br />The Nickel-Copper line I used, this also comes with the 3/8-24 tube nuts but NOT the 12mm x 1.0 you need.<br /><br />4LifetimeLines 25' 3/16 True Copper-Nickel Alloy Non-Magnetic Brake Line Replacement Tubing Coil and Fitting Kit, Inverted Flare<br />https://amzn.to/3SmPClV<br /><br />I bought this fitting kit prior which is great if you want to have an assortment of various tube fittings on hand - this includes both the 3/8-24 as well as the 12mm x 1.0 fittings you'll need:<br /><br />The Stop Shop Fitting Assortment for 3/16 Inch Brake Line Tubing, Inverted Flare & Bubble/ISO flare fittings, Metric & SAE (Pack of 45 fittings)<br />https://amzn.to/3KBzCu6<br /><br /><br />Tools:<br /><br />Eastwood Flaring Tool - this is a great investment if you plan to flare lines yourself...it's not cheap, but it's a wonderful tool. There are some other brands selling this, but Eastwood gets props for their being consistent quality from my experience. <br /><br />Eastwood Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool Kit | 45° Degree Single Double & Bubble Brake Tubing Flares<br />https://amzn.to/3SmVXxv<br /><br />I can't find the tubing cutter I have, I think it was from Harbor Freight, but here's a high quality OTC cutter:<br /><br />OTC 6514 Mini Heavy Duty Tubing Cutter<br />https://amzn.to/3Et5Vb8<br /><br />Tubing Benders:<br />Will share a few options - if you are investing in tools for this and future work, go as high quality as possible. If you just want a one-time use tool, basic may work...I don't have either of these, because my older benders are not showing up for sale anymore.<br /><br />High Quality:<br />Imperial Tool 470FH Triple Head 180 Degree Tube Bender with Roto-Lok Indexing Handle, 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8"<br />https://amzn.to/3ImaDIP<br /><br />Basic:<br />Capri Tools Tube Bender, 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 in. (CP21105)<br />https://amzn.to/3IkmwPi<br /><br /><br />Deburring Tool:<br />AFA Tooling Deburring Tool Kit with 11 High Speed Steel BS1010 Blades<br />https://amzn.to/3XMHqw5<br /><br /><br />Flare Wrenches - SAE and Metric Kit:<br />Sunex Tools 9809A Flare Nut Wrench Set, 1/4"x5/16" - 5/8" - 11/16", 9mm x 11mm - 19mm x 21mm, Fully Polished, 9-Piece (Includes Roll-Case), SAE & Metric<br />https://amzn.to/3lVqCWL<br /><br />Kit (flex head SAE):<br />GEARWRENCH 5 Pc. Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set, SAE - 81910<br />https://amzn.to/3ZtRpbd<br /><br />Kit (Flex Head Metric):<br />GEARWRENCH 6 Pc. Flex Flare Nut Wrench, Metric - 81911D<br />https://amzn.to/3komj5B<br /><br />Flare Crowsfoot 12mm Metric:<br />Sunex 971012 3/8-Inch Drive 12-mm Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench<br />https://amzn.to/3ITSROF<br /><br />Kit:<br />Sunex 9710M 3/8-Inch Drive Metric Crowfoot Flare Nut Wrench Set, Size-10 - Size 19, 10-Piece<br />https://amzn.to/3lPZesV
Note that the Bonus video with many more details on the bending process will be shared within a day or two and a link will be placed here.<br /><br />Today we are sharing a video that was the first part of our full brake system refurbishment on this 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ. As many know, the rear brake lines of these are very common to break. While they rust/break usually in the last 6 inches of the line, I usually prefer to pull the whole thing from the ABS pump back, and bend and install a matching new line. So that's what we're going to do today!<br /><br />TOOLS AND PARTS LINKS:<br /><br />Note that any links going to Amazon will be using our Amazon affiliates links, which means we may get a small commission. Also note that I only link to things I have bought, or would buy as an option. I do not get paid to share links, or promote products - I share what I use or would use only.<br /><br />BRAKE LINES and TUBE NUTS<br /><br />Note: As with anything WJ Brake related, do note that there was a change from Tevis to Akebono front calipers for the 2004 model year, which I believe started around April 2003 builds. I don't think this affects any of the brake hard lines, but it does affect the front flexible lines - still always double check any parts we share relating to brakes that they fit your year jeep - even though I do think these specific parts should fit all WJs.<br /><br />First off, if you are looking to try a pre-formed kit, I'll share one that appears to have good reviews. I don't recall if this is the one we used when we did a pre-formed kit on a 2004 4.0 WJ a few years back. I do recall it went in ok though, it did need some tweaks, and it is a 2-peice kit. Not a bad option if you don't want to bend line.<br /><br />Fine Lines WIN9951OM Brake Line<br />https://amzn.to/3kh4Agr<br /><br />If you prefer to make your own here are some options:<br /><br />The Nickel-Copper line I used, this also comes with the 3/8-24 tube nuts but NOT the 12mm x 1.0 you need.<br /><br />4LifetimeLines 25' 3/16 True Copper-Nickel Alloy Non-Magnetic Brake Line Replacement Tubing Coil and Fitting Kit, Inverted Flare<br />https://amzn.to/3SmPClV<br /><br />I bought this fitting kit prior which is great if you want to have an assortment of various tube fittings on hand - this includes both the 3/8-24 as well as the 12mm x 1.0 fittings you'll need:<br /><br />The Stop Shop Fitting Assortment for 3/16 Inch Brake Line Tubing, Inverted Flare & Bubble/ISO flare fittings, Metric & SAE (Pack of 45 fittings)<br />https://amzn.to/3KBzCu6<br /><br /><br />Tools:<br /><br />Eastwood Flaring Tool - this is a great investment if you plan to flare lines yourself...it's not cheap, but it's a wonderful tool. There are some other brands selling this, but Eastwood gets props for their being consistent quality from my experience. <br /><br />Eastwood Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool Kit | 45° Degree Single Double & Bubble Brake Tubing Flares<br />https://amzn.to/3SmVXxv<br /><br />I can't find the tubing cutter I have, I think it was from Harbor Freight, but here's a high quality OTC cutter:<br /><br />OTC 6514 Mini Heavy Duty Tubing Cutter<br />https://amzn.to/3Et5Vb8<br /><br />Tubing Benders:<br />Will share a few options - if you are investing in tools for this and future work, go as high quality as possible. If you just want a one-time use tool, basic may work...I don't have either of these, because my older benders are not showing up for sale anymore.<br /><br />High Quality:<br />Imperial Tool 470FH Triple Head 180 Degree Tube Bender with Roto-Lok Indexing Handle, 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8"<br />https://amzn.to/3ImaDIP<br /><br />Basic:<br />Capri Tools Tube Bender, 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 in. (CP21105)<br />https://amzn.to/3IkmwPi<br /><br /><br />Deburring Tool:<br />AFA Tooling Deburring Tool Kit with 11 High Speed Steel BS1010 Blades<br />https://amzn.to/3XMHqw5<br /><br /><br />Flare Wrenches - SAE and Metric Kit:<br />Sunex Tools 9809A Flare Nut Wrench Set, 1/4"x5/16" - 5/8" - 11/16", 9mm x 11mm - 19mm x 21mm, Fully Polished, 9-Piece (Includes Roll-Case), SAE & Metric<br />https://amzn.to/3lVqCWL<br /><br />Kit (flex head SAE):<br />GEARWRENCH 5 Pc. Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set, SAE - 81910<br />https://amzn.to/3ZtRpbd<br /><br />Kit (Flex Head Metric):<br />GEARWRENCH 6 Pc. Flex Flare Nut Wrench, Metric - 81911D<br />https://amzn.to/3komj5B<br /><br />Flare Crowsfoot 12mm Metric:<br />Sunex 971012 3/8-Inch Drive 12-mm Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench<br />https://amzn.to/3ITSROF<br /><br />Kit:<br />Sunex 9710M 3/8-Inch Drive Metric Crowfoot Flare Nut Wrench Set, Size-10 - Size 19, 10-Piece<br />https://amzn.to/3lPZesV
UPDATE! As of February 2023, Mercedes appears to have LH tie rods IN STOCK! See below for parts links!<br /><br />Chapters:<br />00:00 - Intro and Parts Needed Overview<br />02:42 - LH Tie Rod Removal / Inspection<br />05:27 - LH Tie Rod Rebuild Steps<br />08:07 - Center Drag Link and Damper Removal<br />10:40 - Drag Link Initial Mockup<br />11:05 - New M10x1.0 Locknuts<br />11:53 - Installing Center Link and Damper<br />15:05 - Idler Bushings Replacement Overview<br />18:02 - LH Tie Rod Installation<br />19:36 - RH Tie Rod Removal and Install<br />23:26 - Alignment Notes<br />24:27 - Conclusion<br /><br />Today we have video showing how to replace all of the major steering linkage components on a W126 Mercedes, this one being a 1990 560 SEL. We show how to replace the Left Hand and Right Hand tie rod assemblies, including rebuliding one of the tie rods with new ends. Then we show how to replace the steering damper and center drag link. Finally, we go over steps to replace the idler bushings. <br /><br />PARTS AND TOOLS:<br /><br />Note that we link to parts and tools we have used or would buy as alternatives. Any links to Amazon will use our Affiliates link and Vortex Garage may get a smal commission. That said many of these parts links will be outside of Amazon as they aren't the best place to find everything...<br /><br />PARTS:<br />NOTE: These parts are what we used on this 1990 560 SEL - you need to validate the parts will fit your specific car! <br /><br />From MBPartsUSA ( All these are Genuine Mercedes, usually shipped from a local dealer)<br /><br />Center Link - Mercedes-Benz (126-460-08-05)<br />https://mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-center-link-1264600805<br /><br />LH Tie Rod Assembly - Mercedes-Benz (126-330-05-03)<br />IN STOCK Feb 2023!<br />https://mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-tie-rod-assembly-1263300503<br /><br />RH Tie Rod Assembly - Mercedes-Benz (126-330-06-03)<br />https://mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-tie-rod-assembly-1263300603<br /><br />Steering Damper / Shock Absorber - Mercedes-Benz (000-463-51-32-64)<br />https://mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-shock-absorber-463513264?c=bD05Jm49RHluYW1pYyBTRU8gUGFnZSZrPTE%3D<br /><br />LockNuts:<br />I could not find original MB part numbers for these, and they don't come with the MB genuine parts. Here's a link to a site I often order fasteners. You'll need 6 at bare minimum but I'd advise to get extras.<br /><br />I'll also share 8.8 (which I used and are fine) or 10.9 class (stronger, I'd use if available but 8.8's are fine)<br /><br />M10x1.0 Nyloc Nut, Steel, Class 8.8<br />https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6891<br />(Feb 2023 Price: $0.44/each, or 50 for $14.88)<br /><br />M10x1.0 Nyloc Nut, Steel, Class 10.9<br />https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=15285<br />(Feb 2023 prices: $0.82/each, next bulk size is 100 at about $58)<br /><br />Alternative Parts Links:<br /><br />Steering Damper / Genuine Mercedes:<br />https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/000463513264.htm?pn=000463513264<br /><br />RH Tie Rod Assembly / Genuine Mercedes:<br />https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1263300603.htm?pn=126-330-06-03-MBZ<br /><br />Center Drag Link<br />https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1263300603.htm?pn=126-330-06-03-MBZ<br /><br />The Parts we used to rebuild the LH side tie rod, since a full assembly was not avaialble:<br />Lemforder Tie Rod End LH / Left Thread<br />https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/0003385010.htm?pn=000-338-50-10-M69<br /><br />Lemforder Tie Rod End LH / Right Thread<br />https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/0003385210.htm?pn=000-338-52-10-M69<br /><br /><br />TOOLS:<br /><br />GEARWRENCH Ball Joint Separator - 3916D<br />This is the larger one I used for most of the joints - have had for several years.<br />https://amzn.to/3YuGWvX<br /><br />ARES 12104-19mm Universal Tie Rod End Tool (Cheaper Tool)<br />This looks similar to the one I used for some of the joints, I think mine is out of an older HF kit, but this looks like the right tool:<br />https://amzn.to/3lC9W6x<br /><br />OTC 7315A Universal Tie Rod End Remover (Better / Pricier)<br />This is a better version of the tie rod remover, OTC tools are usually much higher grade. Twice the price but will last you a long time.<br />https://amzn.to/3EtVZ15<br /><br />GEARWRENCH 5 Pc. Front End Service Set - 41690<br />If you don't have any of these tools, getting a full kit is a good way to go, plus more tools for future projects<br />https://amzn.to/3XoR4oE<br /><br />Allen Wrench - if you have Ikea furniture, you may be able to find a 5mm allen wrench from those! But, if you need one, you may want to just get a cheap set like this:<br /><br />Amazon Basics Hex Key Allen Wrench Set with Ball End - Set of 26<br />https://amzn.to/40Sk5fl<br /><br />or this better quality Tekton unit:<br />TEKTON Hex Key Wrench Set, 13-Piece (1.27-10 mm) | 25242<br />https://amzn.to/3K8Y1aw<br /><br />Due to the positioning of the joints you don't want a long T-handle one, which won't fit for some. <br /><br />Torque Wrench:<br />TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench (10-80 ft.-lb.) 24330<br />https://amzn.to/3XtBc43<br /><br />Pickle Forks:<br /><br />OTC Set I use, also works with pneumatics:<br />OTC 4559 Manual/Pneumatic Pickle Fork Set<br />https://amzn.to/3XpXEuV<br /><br />Single Tie Rod Fork / GEARWRENCH 12" Tie Rod Separator - 2288D<br />https://amzn.to/3xmtcHF
We're trying to catch up on older video edits - this car came by the shop in May 2022 and we have some videos to share - in this one, we'll do a walkaround, and check out this W126 Mercedes. This one in particular is a 1990 560 SEL with the M117 V8. <br /><br />We'll also get it on the lift and do a full stem to stern mechanical inspection.<br /><br />Coming soon, videos showing the refurbishment of the steering linkages (tie rods, drag link, damper, etc.) followed by a video showing how we did a lighting upgrade and Euro light conversion on this car.
You've already seen a few videos with our new-to-us 2004 Jeep WJ. When we got it, it was pretty dirty, and had several electrical faults. Well after showing you the Jeep and fixing those issues, it's finally time to put it on the lift and get a good look underneath. What will we find in a mechanical inspection - will it be good news, or will we uncover frightful things???
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